Indoor! Grilling

November 8, 2004
While Raichlen, who's made a television and book-writing career as an advocate of cooking over live fire, still believes that outdoor cooking is the best way to cook, he admits that isn't practical for apartment dwellers or those living in places with frigid winter temperatures or "grill-burying snowfall." He begins by describing and making recommendations for various indoor grilling devices, from the ubiquitous George Foreman to fireplace rotisseries, and then presents recipes in separate chapters for appetizers, beef, pork, lamb, burgers, poultry, seafood, sandwiches, vegetables, basics (rubs, compound butters and sauces) and desserts. Befitting its brawny subject, the book's chapters on appetizers and desserts aren't filled with frilly offerings that look nice but lack substance. Rather, Raichlen makes Gazpacho with hearty grilled tomatoes, and prepares Grilled Peaches with Bourbon Caramel Sauce using either a contact grill, grill pan, built-in grill or fireplace grill. When the recipe can be prepared on any indoor grilling device (and most recipes can be), Raichlen provides, in a separate box, specific instructions for each type of grill. Every recipe includes informative, enthusiastic headnotes, useful tips and clear, detailed instructions. But perhaps the book's greatest asset is its balanced use of hearty flavors. It's an intelligent cookbook packed with tasty ideas that will keep indoor grillers busy all year long. Photos.